Famagusta

Famagusta: ghost town

Famagusta is a fascinating city on the east coast of Cyprus that combines a rich history with the tragic events of modern times. It represents the jewel of Cyprus, and although it is located in the Turkish part of the island, it is much closer to Ayia Napa or Protaras. When you arrive, you’ll immediately be charmed by the old town surrounded by massive Venetian walls and the nearby ‘ghost town’ of Varosha, which has remained abandoned since the 1970s.

History and the conflict

Famagusta has been an important trading centre since the Middle Ages. In the 13th century, during the Lusignan Kingdom, it became one of the wealthiest cities in the eastern Mediterranean. It was turned into an important fortress by the Venetians in the 15th century, which resisted Turkish attacks until 1571, when the Ottomans conquered the city.

Famagusta’s modern history, however, is linked to the Cyprus conflict of 1974, when the Turkish invasion caused the closure of part of Varosha, which has remained abandoned ever since. Once a tourist centre with luxury hotels and beaches, the district now symbolises the division of Cyprus.

Famagusta – Old Town

When you head to Famagusta, head to the old town first. There are several parking lots, especially around the walls. From there, go to the Lala Mustafa Pasha Mosque. This should be your first stop, and from there, let your eyes guide you. History breathes all around you, and the crumbling ancient churches call you into their depths, as do the many shops and cafes. Give in and enjoy the unforgettable atmosphere.

St. Nicholas Cathedral (Lala Mustafa Pasha Mosque)

St. Nicholas Cathedral is one of the finest examples of Gothic architecture in the Eastern Mediterranean. It was built in the 13th century, when the town was one of the richest and most important ports of the region. Its imposing façade, with its tall towers and detailed carved windows, is reminiscent of French cathedrals, reflecting the influence of the crusaders who ruled the city.

Its interior is a magnificent example of medieval architecture, with walls decorated with frescoes and ornamental arches. After the Ottoman invasion in the 16th century, the cathedral was converted into a mosque, and it still serves this purpose today. Bell towers were removed and replaced by minarets.

When entering the mosque, you should take your shoes off first, and women should cover their hair with a headscarf. You can borrow one, both for your head and your body, if you are wearing shorts.

In front of the mosque, you will find towers made of cloth. We have no idea what they were used for, but it was a nice modern touch. Also, right next to the mosque, you will find an excellent pastry shop. Be sure to stop in for some cookies.

Namik Kemal Dungeon

Our next steps led us to the Namik Kemal Dungeon, which lies directly opposite the Lala Mustafa Pasha Mosque. We walked through the medieval gate as if we were entering a palace. However, we were completely outside. This building was once a prison. 😃

This small prison was built during the Ottoman period, and its most famous prisoner was the Turkish national poet Namik Kemal, who spent three years in exile here because of his political views. It is fairly modest and dark, reflecting the harsh conditions in which the prisoners were kept. Inside you will find an exhibition dedicated to his life and works

Definitely don’t sit on the wall here. It’s covered in something sticky from the trees that grow here. Blossoms from the trees didn’t come off our clothes at all and we had a problem all day afterwards how to hide our dirty and sticky butts 😃

Royal Palace

If you keep going straight ahead, you will come to more decayed buildings, but they will be hard to identify. They were once the seat of the kings of Cyprus. It was a symbol of the wealth and power that Famagusta had in the Middle Ages. Found in the heart of the old town, even though only parts of it remain, it still evokes awe.

Built in the 13th century, the palace served as a residence for kings and nobility. There are other historic buildings nearby, creating a complex full of history and mystery.

Church of St. Francis

Right next to the palace you will recognize another building, this time better preserved.

The Church of St. Francis was built in the 14th century. It represents a unique combination of Gothic architecture and medieval influence. Its exterior, with its ornate arches and rich statues, immerses you in the history of this shrine, which served both as a church and as a storehouse during its existence after the Ottoman conquest of the city.

Inside, you can admire the remains of the original furnishings and murals that reflect medieval artwork. Although the church is not fully functional today, its historical value makes it one of the important stops for visitors to Famagusta.

On the way, you will meet one more church, which, unfortunately, did not have a sign. Or we didn’t find it. It was gorgeous, especially with the colors brought to life by the setting sun. You could get inside and see the ruins up close, and we were very impressed.

Then you’ll be drawn into the alleyways full of shops. The prices were quite high, but that may be related to the fact that we are used to the prices in Turkey. 😊

On the way back, we popped into one more ruined church, which charmed us, but we didn’t want to stop in order to have time to catch the mosque and the church of St. Francis.

Our journey was made more pleasant by cats and dogs, which was very much appreciated by the children. This is why they love Turkey.

Church of St. George of the Greeks

is a remarkable example of Byzantine architecture and an important monument reflecting the history of Greek Orthodox Christianity in Cyprus. Built in the 14th century, it originally served the Greek Catholic community, but after the Ottoman invasion in 1571, the church was destroyed and has remained in ruins ever since.

Massive arches characterise the exterior of the temple, and the remains of the interior reveal hints of former frescoes and iconography.

Venetian Walls

These massive walls, which surround the old town of Famagusta, are one of the best-preserved examples of Venetian military engineering in the Mediterranean area. They were built in the 15th century to defend the city from Ottoman raids. The ramparts are high and wide, with several gates and towers, the most famous of which is Othello’s Tower. Strolling along the walls will take you back to the Middle Ages, when Famagusta was a key port and trading centre. From the walls you will have a magnificent view of the town, the sea and the harbour.

City of Ghosts – Varosha

Varosha, also known as a ghost town, is today a sad symbol of the Cyprus conflict. Before the Turkish invasion, it was a thriving tourist area with the best hotels and beaches on the island.

Famagusta in this area used to have beautiful beaches, which were one of the main tourist attractions of the area. These beaches are still considered among the best on the island, but they have been empty for more than 40 years. During the invasion, these beaches were fenced off and guarded by military forces, making them inaccessible territory.

In recent years, however, the Turkish government has opened some beaches to the public. You can walk along the coast and see abandoned hotels standing right by the sea. However, there is a strange silence and emptiness when you realise that there used to be thousands of tourists living here. However, it is also a nice feeling that the city is rising again from the ashes after 40 years.

How to explore the ghost town?

The deserted part is huge, and if you decide to walk, expect to need at least 4 hours. However, you can rent a bicycle or an electric scooter or use small golf carts.

We opted for bikes, which cost €2 each, and a scooter for me for €13.

You cross the main street, which was once bustling and full of life. Only the signs on the dilapidated buildings remind you of the individual shops.

After the invasion, the entire city was abandoned and destroyed. Varosha is still a closed zone, to which access has been forbidden for many years. Many buildings are gradually crumbling and overgrown with vegetation, the windows are broken, and the streets are deserted. This ‘frozen time’ presents a powerful image of the unresolved conflict between northern (Turkish) and southern (Greek) Cyprus.

Broken windows or destroyed signs look like something out of a horror movie and show how unstable our creations are today.

Only one building that is restored and undamaged is the mosque.

Seeing the 40-year-old Coca-Cola sign was an interesting surprise. It confirms the importance of the city. Coca-Cola did not exist in our country at that time.

Gradually, you will come to the iconic building of the ghost town, the Toyota Building. You can see a photo of this place on several promotional materials.

Abandoned hotels

Even today, you can still see the tall hotels and their names on them. Before the invasion, there were more than 100 hotels and hundreds of apartment buildings. You can have a look at them to this day. These hotels hosted famous celebrities and thousands of tourists a year. Today, these hotels are decaying, many still have their original signs, ruined facades and broken windows… Interestingly, in some of the buildings you can still find old furniture, clutter and traces of the life that once flourished here.

Varosha’s streets are becoming overgrown with vegetation and gradually transforming into a kind of urban forest. Trees and plants have grown over the pavements and in some cases even over the walls and roofs of buildings.

In some places in the city, you can see old, rusty cars that were left abandoned on the streets after 1974. These vehicles have become a symbol of stopped time and a failed return to life. Some of them made us feel as if someone was still living here.

A sad look at former glory

Today, wandering the streets where hundreds of tourists and cars once passed offers a view of a completely empty and quiet environment. It is both striking and melancholic, especially when one realises that people must have suddenly abandoned this entire city, leaving everything as it was.

In an hour and a half, we did a big loop on our bikes and spent another hour on the beach. One last sunset over Famagusta, and we can head back to civilization and the Greek part. That place is very strong. It’s sad how far this conflict has gone, with no winner or loser. And the worst part is that there is actually no aggressor. Both sides have their share of the blame.

How much time to spend there

Reserve at least half a day to explore Famagusta and its old town. If you also want to visit the surrounding area, including Varosha (at least from the outside), we recommend dedicating a full day to this excursion. Walking around the historic centre, visiting the monuments and spending time reflecting on the tragic history of Varosha are experiences that deserve your time and attention.

We went here for half a day at first, but the old town alone took us 4 hours. So we came back here the next evening and spent another 2 hours in the ghost town. And even that was not enough. If you have the chance, definitely come here for a day trip. Famagusta deserves it, and you will be thrilled.

If time permits, walk to the harbour and enjoy the magical atmosphere of the place. And the cherry on top is the Famagusta sign in the Turkish version 😊

While you’re in Famagusta, try heading to Salamis. It’s also just ruins, but it’s worth a visit.