10-day / 14-day round trip around Iceland

Iceland has been on our travel bucket list for a long time. The land of fire and ice offers many contrasts, and the best way to explore it is to take the Ring Road and drive around the entire island. Along the way, we are treated to breathtaking views and we stop several times each day along the way to take in the scenery and the changing landscape.

Our 10-day itinerary is more like a 14-day itinerary. We are adventurers and don’t mind getting up early and exploring the countryside late into the evening on vacation.

Ice Cave Vatnajökull
beauty of the ice cave

When is the best time to go to Iceland?

If you want to experience all the beauty of the island, you have to come here twice. In summer the island is beautifully green, you can spot puffins and the long days offer ideal conditions for exploring. However, the prices are very high.

From October to April, prices are lower and you can see the Northern Lights and visit ice caves. We decided to visit the island in October, when it’s not so cold yet, but you can already visit the ice caves and have a high chance of seeing the Northern Lights. We saw it four times. The downside was that we couldn’t visit the inland, as the roads are only open from mid-June to early September.

Myvatn
Aurora borealis over Mývatn

Beauties of Iceland

In addition to several glaciers, the landscape offers numerous craters, thermal spas, geothermal areas, waterfalls, picturesque villages and views.

A large number of tourists only head to the south of the island, where you will find the most famous sights such as Reynisfjara Beach, the ice cave of Katla or the waterfall Skógafoss.

Fewer tourists head to the largest glacier, Vatnajökull and Diamond Beach, and only a fraction continue further east and north. And that’s a shame. Because this is where the real and authentic Iceland awaits you. Here you’ll find the lesser-known Mývatn Baths, which look like the famous Blue Lagoon, but cost half as much and there are noticeably fewer tourists. In the north, two significant waterfalls, one of which made history, also make their way there.

Jökulsárlón Glacier Lagoon
Jökulsárlón Glacier Lagoon

Southwest of the island - not only Reykjavík and the Golden Circle

Reykjavík is not only the capital, but also the only city where you can find a wide selection of shops and restaurants. Its historic centre offers quaint souvenir shops, street-art, as well as the rainbow walkway, which is meant to symbolise equality and freedom.

The Historical Museum will give you an insight into the life of Iceland’s ancient inhabitants and should definitely not be missed. And of course, all roads lead to Hallgrímskirkja Cathedral.

Rainbow walkway has become a permanent decoration of the city

From Reykjavík you can also visit the famous Golden Circle, which is a compact representation of the island. Tectonic rift between Europe and Asia should be your first stop. You can observe with your own eyes this unique fault, which is constantly growing. Brúarfoss and Gullfoss waterfalls will show you the majestic flow of water, the icy blue colour of the water and the rainbows that are typical of perhaps all waterfalls in Iceland.

Kerid Crater will show you the power of Iceland’s volcanoes and Stokkur Geyser will show you their beauty. Geothermal areas with smaller geysers are scattered all over Iceland, but this is the largest. And at the end of the day, you can relax in the Secret Lagoon, which you will also walk around.

Geysir Strokkur
Geysir Strokkur

Lesser known places around Reykjavik

One lesser-known area just outside Reykjavík is the Seltún Geothermal Area, which feels like an otherworldly landscape full of bubbling mud lakes, sulphur springs and colourful mineral deposits. Next to it you’ll also find Fagradalsfjall Volcano and Lake Grænavatn.

Seltún Geothermal Area
red dominates this section

Fagradalsfjall Volcano has been making its presence known for the last four years, and as long as it’s not spewing lava, you can go and visit it. However, be aware that the red lava only remains visible for a few days or weeks after the eruption. Despite the fact that there was only solidified lava waiting for us, the area was breathtaking and our only regret was that we couldn’t do the whole 14-kilometer hike.

Lake Grænavatn and its scenery remain hidden from the eyes of visitors. That way, you have its black sand beaches and spectacular views all to yourself.

Fagradalsfjall
it's still smoking

South Coast - hundreds of waterfalls, beaches and ice

Southern part of the island is beautiful and that is why it attracts the most people. Accommodation prices are insanely high, but you can’t go to Iceland and miss it. So prepare a higher budget and an early wake-up call to enjoy the sites before the buses full of tourists get here.

Among Iceland’s most famous attractions, the Seljalandsfoss Waterfall is one of the best known for the opportunity to walk behind the massive water stream. But only from June to September, then it turns into an icy landscape. Gljúfrabúi Waterfall is right next door, and you can’t miss it. Hidden in the rock, it is not only perfectly photogenic, but also offers adventure.

Gljúfrabúi
Gljufrabui Waterfall is gorgeous

And the third of the waterfalls is Skógafoss. In addition to the view from below, you can climb the stairs to the upper viewing platform or hike along the river to discover several smaller waterfalls.

But the most beautiful waterfall is definitely the neighbouring Kvernufoss. Much lesser known, but definitely an enchanting waterfall that allows you not only to walk past the massive flow of water, but also to admire the sunshine and the nature that surrounds it.

Kvernufoss
perfect idyll by the Kvernufoss Waterfall

Reynisfjara Beach is really a must-see if you go to Iceland. It’s also the windiest and feels like the coldest stop. Dress warmly, don’t get too close to the water and enjoy your first contact with the basalt columns. If you head north, it won’t be your last.

Reynisfjara Beach
Reynisfjara Beach

We're heading further east and the number of tourists are dwindling

Fjaðrárgljúfur Canyon shows the island’s rugged beauty. It is beautifully green in summer, and gloomy and dark in winter. As you pass through the lava fields, you’ll get a hint of what awaits you here too. Trails over the canyon allow you to explore it in all its splendor, even with the waterfall at the end.

Definitely the place with the biggest contrast is Diamond Beach. With its black volcanic sand, rough sea and glittering ice crystals from the melting glacier, it looks like something from another world. Together with the Jökulsárlón Glacier Lagoon, they are a testament to global warming. The seals that like to hang out and play will make your walk among them more pleasant.

Diamond Beach
Diamond Beach

Vatnajökull, the largest glacier, is also a stone’s throw away. You’ll discover the beautiful blue ice, views of the endless white landscape and feel the power of nature. Here, ice caves constantly appear and disappear due to the movements of the ice. Although you can only visit it by an organized trip, for us it was the best trip in the whole of Iceland.

Vatnajökull
in the afternoon the blue colour of the ice is better

Eastern Iceland - fjords, fishing villages and untamed nature

In the south-east of the island, the picturesque town of Hofn and the nearby iconic Stokksnes await you. Here you will be enchanted by the mighty Vestrahorn Mountain, the black sandy beach and the Viking village. Although the village was only a movie set, it definitely deserves your attention.

Stokksnes
Stokksnes

On the way further east you will come across Lækjavík Viewpoint. It offers something you won’t see anywhere else – a vast panorama of black beaches that stretch for kilometres.

The Ring Road will slowly curve north and you need to pay attention here. You must not miss the picturesque village of Djúpivogur. Here you’ll find tranquillity, views of the fjords and history dating back to the 16th century. Visit Langabúð, the oldest building, and enjoy a coffee by the fjords.

Djúpivogur
Djúpivogur

In the east of the island, you have two options for travel. Either continue on Ring Road or take Route 939. The second option is also known as Öxi Pass and connects Djúpivogur and Egilsstaðir through beautiful countryside. It offers views of fjords, snow-capped mountains resembling crowns, small farms and waterfalls including Folaldafoss.

road 939 Oxi Pass
peaks like from Mordor

You slowly don't see cars anymore, you are greeted by a typical Iceland

Located near Egilsstaðir is the third highest waterfall in Iceland, Hengifoss. It will enchant you with its basalt columns with red clay layers. The hike offers beautiful views of Litlanesfoss, the gorge and the river, but it won’t be free. It will take you about 2.5 hours round trip to hike to the waterfall.

Hengifoss
Hengifoss

Eastern fjords are said to be beautiful and in summer you can see puffins. Outside the summer months, however, the weather is not very good for visiting. And we didn’t get here either, as the roads were already icy in October.

However, the greatest jewel of this part of the island is Studlagil Canyon, famous for its basalt columns and crystal clear water. While the viewpoint offers quick access, a hike east to the river reveals its full beauty.

Studlagil Canyon
beautiful location with unforgettable views

Northern Iceland - inhospitable beauty and geothermal areas

To the northeast, you’ll find Diamond Circle, which takes you through a beautiful valley and several waterfalls. The largest is Dettifoss Waterfall, the second most powerful waterfall in Europe. With its width of 100 m and its powerful energy, it will amaze every visitor, unless it is shrouded in mist.

If you’re looking for an alternative spa to Blue Lagoon, you definitely need to check out Myvatn Nature Baths. Set amidst a volcanic landscape, they offer turquoise geothermal water surrounded by volcanic sand and rocks. Its magical atmosphere beckons you for a drink and a few hours of relaxation.

Mývatn Nature Baths
heart-shaped hole through which the sun penetrated

Apart from the baths in the Mývatn area, you will find a little bit of every roll. The Hverir geothermal area is famous for its bubbling mud springs, rising steam and distinctive sulphur smell. In addition, a colourful landscape like something out of a fairy tale book awaits you.

Right next to it you will come across the Krafla volcanic area. Here you will see the Víti crater with a turquoise lake, but it is frozen most of the year. Best of all, there’s a shower in the middle of nowhere by the roadside, with hot water flowing out of it. It takes courage to jump under it, but it’s worth it.

Hverir
Hverir

And lava again

The Dimmuborgir Lava Field should not be missing from your list of stops. It offers marked trails from which you can observe bizarre rock formations and caves. Legend has it that it is home to trolls and Christmas elves.

If you miss the waterfalls in the north, head to the waterfall of the gods, Goðafoss Waterfall. Its water comes from the Vatnajökull Glacier. Goðafoss plays an important role in Icelandic history, specifically in the transition from the worship of pagan gods to Christianity.

Dimmuborgir
Dimmuborgir

Game of Thrones fans should not miss the Grjótagjá Cave, where some scenes were filmed. This small lava cave, hidden in a volcanic landscape, catches your eye at first sight with its strange shape and mysterious atmosphere.

All the way in the Mývatn area you will be accompanied by a view of the Hverfjall Crater. Climbing to the top is relatively easy and can be done by just about anyone who is in the mood for a bit of exercise. And believe me, the longer you look at it, the more you’ll want to visit it.

Grjótagjá
Grjótagjá

The last stop we had in the north was the town of Akureyri. In the centre of Akureyri you will find colourful houses, small cafes and boutiques that give the town a nice atmosphere. And the traffic lights don’t have circles, but hearts.

Akureyri

Western Iceland - Snæfellsnes Peninsula

Snæfellsnes Peninsula is such a miniature Iceland. You will find all the charming aspects of this fascinating country in one place. Many would-be visitors plan to visit this part of the island, but they don’t realise that it takes 2 hours to get here from Reykjavik alone, and it will take you at least 5 hours to drive around the entire peninsula.

route 54 Iceland
Snæfellsnes

As well as the famous Kirkjufellsfossar Waterfall, you can watch seals, admire street art, enjoy views of the cliffs or visit the Saxholl Crater.

Ytri Tunga
handsome one who lives on the beach of Ytri Tunga

If you’d like to follow in the footsteps of Icelandic mythology, Rauðfeldar Canyon should definitely be on your itinerary. Its walls are high and narrow, often covered in moss, giving the impression of a mysterious place, as if cut out of a fantasy movie.

Rauðfeldar
Rauðfeldar Canyon

“Into the Glacier” Ice Tunnel is another gem of Iceland, located on the western slope of Langjökull Glacier. This ice tunnel offers visitors a unique opportunity to explore the fascinating world beneath the glacier’s surface.

Ice tunnel "Into the Glacier"
in some places turquoise predominates

Víðgelmir Lava Cave is located approximately 15 minutes from the “Into the Glacier” Ice Tunnel. This lava cave, created more than 1,000 years ago, is a unique 52-kilometre tunnel that has attracted scientists from NASA. During the tour, you have the opportunity to admire the minerals left behind by the lava and plunge into the depths of the earth.

the cave Víðgelmir
the cave Víðgelmir

Some advice in conclusion

Iceland is truly a land of changing weather.

  • Check Vedur.is every day to keep an eye on the weather forecast.
  • The umferdin.is website provides information on the state of the roads. When the weather changes in Iceland, some roads become impassable, and the site informs you in real time not only if the roads are passable, but also what condition they are in.
  • Have at least two pairs of shoes with you. Hardly a day went by when we didn’t have to go across the water. Optimal hiking summer/winter boots and a second pair of thick rubber boots. You’ll appreciate them, especially if you go into canyons or to hidden waterfalls.
  • Food prices are insanely high for people from Eastern Europe. And, unfortunately, they are not very good quality either. Choose accommodation with a kitchen, you will find it handy.
  • Renting a car is not expensive, but petrol is. The car for 11 days cost us 550 €, but we left 600 € for petrol.

How many days do you need for Iceland?

You won’t be able to do the Ring Road in 7 days unless you go in July-August. There are long distances between places and you need to have at least 1 day in reserve in case the road is closed or there are strong winds. There is not always another route and you don’t want to drive in strong winds of 150 km/h or more. The minimum is 8 days, the ideal is 10 packed or 14 relaxed days.

We spent a full 10 days here without flights and managed to do more or less everything we had planned, but we missed about two days in the north. The weather was bad and we couldn’t do the hikes we had planned. That is why it is important to always have at least one day in reserve in each part.

As far as accommodations go, it was challenging. Outside Reykjavik we had different accommodation every night. This did allow us to see everything, but packing every morning is not for everyone.

a journey that literally swallowed us